The epic train journey back to PDX begins....

The aftermath

Clean plate club!

San Francisco knows how to throw down with the vegan food

Southwestern Tofu Scramble with gf cornbread.

Sunburnt!

Done!!!

San Francisco cocktails!

Do you see it???

We don't either.

Golden Gate Bridge baby!!!!

Day 29 & 30

We're almost done!!
Yesterday we rode 42 miles and today 67. I think today was our longest
day yet. The 1 is relentless. I love it but it's so hard. Constant up
and down kickers where you have to stand up to get up and over. I had
to have ice cream in a tiny town called Tomales. We pushed hard today
so we can hve a short day tomorrow. 25 miles to San Francisco with
alot of city navigation. The ride across the Golden Gate Bride should
be EPIC! It has a designated bike lane. I'm pretty excited for it.
Then dinner at Millenium to celebrate tomorrow night. Friday night,
Nik and I take the train back to Portland. We really miss Henry and
the girls.

This is a picture of the coast today. The weather was so strange. A
thick fog over the ocean to the right and right blue skies and
sunshine on the left. Sonoma County is beautiful. I've never seen cow
pastures so close to the ocean.

Kampung Kabin at the KOA!!!

A bed!

Nik and I zip our sleeping bags together to make one big one. It's
going to be some good sleeping tonight. No raccoons to fight with.

Day 28

Today we rode 42 miles to Manchester Beach. We decided to stay at the
KOA campground tonight instead of the hiker biker site at the state
park. And it was damn worth it. Hot tub! Beds! Full outdoor kitchen!
Camping cabins!!! Amazing. It was a great end to a hard but good day.

Highway 1 has been great. I admit...I was hating on California. Some
people have a strange love for all things California and it holds some
allure for them. Not for me. I don't mind CA. But it's never been a
Mecca of golden sunshine and I think LA is where souls go to die. And
once I rode for 3 days on the dusty, hot ass 101 with no shoulder and
people in pickups giving me the finger and telling me stories of dead
cyclists at every rest stop, I had had enough. BUT then I turned onto
the 1 and it got awesome. It's technical and hilly but the views are
spectacular and the ocean really does glitter here. Today we climbed
the steepest hill on the coastal route. But it was short and we all
made it alive.
And I love my boyfriend for suggesting the KOA. It's soooo good.

Erin, how did you go on bike tour for 5 weeks and not lose one pound???

This is how:

The raccoon war rages on....

Day 27

Yesterday we rode 39 miles to Mackerricher Beach State Park. We
climbed the infamous Leggett Hill which ended up being a nice
switchback climb. It took a while but it wasnt a killer but then we
climbed the hill out of Westport, which was a killer. Nik and i
agreed that it was the climb of the trip. It was steep as hell the
entire time and I was really glad ive finally gotten comfortable
enough to stand up and grind up the hills.

This is a picture of highway 1. It rules. It's not easy by any stretch
of the imagination, tons of kickers and not alot of shoulder but it's
so damn cool, it doesn't matter. You can see the road winding along
the coastline in the picture. The campground is right on the water
and I could hear waves all night. I think it was one of the best
nights of sleep all trip.
We have 3 and a half days of riding to get to San Francisco. I can't
believe it's almost over!

They really loved this beer

Summit!!!!!

Trish made it! We didn't have to bury her on the side of the road!

Ocean!!!!!!

After a bunch of days on the crappy 101, we're on the 1 next to the
ocean!
Yay!

What Nik does when he waits at summits

Day 26

I think it's day 26. Yesterday we rode 58 miles, the last 14 miles
were on the Avenue of the Giants which was awesome. Today we rode 48
miles in some serious heat along the 101. The 101 has really started
to suck. The cars aren't nice, it's hilly and the shoulder comes and
goes.

Tomorrow we climb the infamous Leggett Hill that Trish has been
losing sleep over since the trip started. We climb up to 2000 feet but
we start at 1100 feet so it won't be that bad. Nick keeps threatening
to leave her on the side of the road. She'll be fine! It's nothing
worse than anything we've climbed so far.

We stopped in Garberville today and stocked up at an awesome natural
foods store and had shaved ices from a really cool stand.

Less than 200 miles to San Francisco!! We are going to make a
reservation at Millenium, a nice vegan restaurant to celebrate the end
of the tour!
Kingsley Harden... I'm in California, let's meet up.

Sent from my iPhone

Avenue of the Giants lunch!

We rode 44 miles from Arcata to the Avenue of the Giants. We'll be off
te 101 (yay!!!!!!!) for the next 32 miles. We have about 13 more miles
to ride today to get to the Marine Garden Club grove campground.
The day off in Arcata was good for my legs and mind. Although, Arcata
is GROSS. I could definitely never go back there.
And yeah, I ate a sweet tea vodka fueled 2nd dinner the other night.
So what?! Nik did too.

Nik likes to talk trash....

This is him going to town on his 2nd dinner. Dominated that sandwich.
He wrestled that tofu to the ground.

The aftermath

It's only farts from here on tonight

Marijuana = Food

No, we did not indulge in the whacky weed but Erin is farting it up
bad. This is Nik writing and it's 11 :35. And we've been to 4 bars
and now Ern!'s ordered 2nd dinner. Bike touring makes you hungry long
into the nites. And the californianians are a weird and distant breed
but the vegan food iN this establushment is fantastic and Erin is
having a Reuben over french fries not bread. She is in love.
Eating. Just. Now. It's like a fifth grader with a homemade lunch. I
love her so. Sleep well east coast tonight has been a night of
indulgence and love. Many blessings, Nikolas

Scenic Dr. In Trinidad, CA

Day 22

Today we rode 65 miles from Brookings, OR across the California border
to Elk Prairie Campground in the Redwood National Forest. We had the
longest, steepest climb of the day today over the hills in Cresent
City. This picture is of the vista about halfway down the desecent. It
was an awesome climb, it took over an hour. We had a good Mexican
lunch for fuel before the climb.
I'm hoping to see some elk at this campsite. The redwoods are really
amazing. They are so huge, it almost looks like we are riding through
a CGI forest.

Tomorrow we are headed to Arcata to take the afternoon off, get some
good food and maybe stay in a hotel!! Arcata is a hippie town so it
will be a good place to relax after a tough couple days.

Viewpoint!

Redwood Highway viewpoint.

I'm a woman who likes a view.

Getting close!!!

California!

I love a viewpoint.

More Harris State Park awesomeness.

Nik, Nick and Trish at the beach today.

Me at the beach at Harris State Park.

Day 20 and 21

Holy headwind!
Yesterday we rode 39 miles from Bandon to Humbug State Park with a
serious headwind the entire day. This was the last state park for a
while before the California border. We're trying to get back on track
with the Bicycling the Pacific Coast book so that we can make it to
San Francisco in time for Nick and Trish to make their plane on the
26th.
Today we rode 52 miles to Harris Beach State Park. The views of the
Oregon Coast were spectacular but the headwinds were rough. I think
today was one of the harder days. It rained all day and there was a
lot of climbing into the wind. But the campground made it all worth
it. We did laundry!!!! And then an ice cream truck drove around the
loop!! Zing!
We are 7 miles from the California border so tomorrow we should make
it the first campgroud in Redwood State Park and all the REAL climbing
of the trip will begin! I'll take hours of climbing anyday over
headwinds.

Oh and here's a story for my mom: I hate hate hate spiders. But I
really have been good this trip about not freaking about them. Until
this morning. I was doing my chores (rolling up the bedding) and
listening to my iPod. I don't get too much alone time on bike tour so
I like my 15 minutes of music in the morning. So I moved Nik's mat and
there was a huge furry spider about to attack me. I screamed bloody
murder and must have also yelled "spider!!!!!!" and killed the spider
in self defense. Nik came down a few minutes later, although not to
check and see if I was alive but to tell me how loud I was screaming
and shake his head disapprovingly.
I don't like spiders.

Day 19

I didn't take any pictures today so here is a picture of Nik looking
hottttttt.

Today we rode about 40 miles from Tugman State Park to Bullards Beach
State Park. We took a scenic byway called Seven Devils Road. There
must have been a race on the road because all 7 hills on the road were
marked, Devil #1, etc. It was a hard road! I like to use the granny
gear once every couple days, it keeps me humble. It was good climbing.

When we got to Bullard Beach, the Ranger told us that Bandon (where
the cranberry festival was going on) was a 2 mile walk. After an hour
of walking on the 101, we realized that it wasn't 2 miles and by the
time we got there the Cranberry Festival was over. So we had Mexican
food and went to a bar! And called a cab back to the campground. It
was a huge minivan driven by a lady named Charlene and it was $6!
Amazing.

We're about 100 miles from the California border, I think we'll get
halfway there tomorrow.

Day 18

Today we took another rest day of sorts. Last night, the hiker biker
campground at the Honeyman State park was filled with cyclists. We
stayed up partying late with everyone and got a noon start after
making some pancakes. After the late start mixed with the hangover and
a bad Mexican lunch, we decided to stop, call it a day and start over
tomorrow. I need a nap and to try and digest the mammoth gross
buritto i had for lunch We're at Tugman State Park in Lakeside. Ths
is a picture of Nik and Nick taking another swim in Eel Creek.

Hopefully, the Cranberry Festival in Bandon will be worth all the hype!

Carnivorous Plants

Day 17

Today we took a mini rest day, 37 miles from Beachside State Park to
Jessie Honeyman State Park. We decided to stop and take advantage of
the awesome lake and Oregon sand dunes. Nik and Nick hiked to the top
of the dunes and sprinted down into the lake (nick did a face plant
into the sand halfway down) but the water was perfect.

I have to say, the riding for the past few days has made me proud to
live in Oregon. It has been absolutely insanely beautiful. I love the
coast. This is a picture of the sweet descent into the mist off the
road. Today, we saw sea lions at Strawberry Hill and carnivorous
plants at the
Darlingtonia Botanical Gardens.

We're thinking of trying to get to Bandon in the next few days for the
Cranberry Festival.

Cape Perpetua

Sick climbing action in the am!

Nik is fueled by veggie jerky.

Day 16

Today we rode 48 miles from Devils Lake to Beachside State Park. We
decided to take a "short cut" off the 101 and ended up climbing 8 or 9
hills with a 16-20% grade. It was shocking and maybe not the best way
to start the day.
But then the ride got awesome. It was still hilly but the best views
so far. This is a picture from the climb up the scenic route to Cape
Foulweather. We saw a grey whale right off the coast and sea lions.
It was the best road of the trip.
We stopped for lunch in Newport and said bye to Pam and Al. They are
taking the bus back to Portland tomorrow to fly home. It was sad to
say goodbye, we had so much fun with them and the time went by so fast.
The rode about 20 more miles to the campground which is right on the
beach.
I think we'll ride tomorrow and take a rest day somewhere good on
Friday.

Get outta here coon!

Last night we fought a war with the raccoons at Devils Lake
Campgtound. We managed to save most of our food. They got our rice,
soy milk and vitamins.
Lesson learned. Maybe.

Day 12, 13, 14, 15

My phone's been dead for a few days so here's the update.
Saturday (12), we took a rest day in Portland and picked up Nik &
Trish at the airport and it poured down rain all day. We still had a
good vegan dinner at the Blossoming Lotus.
Sunday (13), when we woke up it was still pouring down rain. We went
to vegan brunch at Sweet Pea Bakery and decided to make the call later
in the afternoon. We left around 1 and rode 30 miles down the Highway
6 to Gales Creek, OR and stayed at this awesome campground. It poured
down rain all night and the chipmunks ate a pice of trish's scone but
it was still a sweet place to camp!
Monday (14), we rode 35 miles to Tillamook to meet Pam and Al and then
rode another 13 miles to camp at Cape Lookout which was the best
campground so far. My phone was dead so google it so you can see the
pictures. The beach was amazing. The tree line goes right down to the
ocean and there were starfish on the side of the cliffs. Nick, Nik, Al
and I did a sprint down the beach head on into the 50 degree water. It
was so cool. There were at least 10 other people bike touring camping
there.
Today (15), we rode 46 miles. Trish had her first couple real hills
today! We climbed some nasty hills. The next 3 days should be nice and
flat.

I should also note that I lost my partner in cheese and sugar crimes!
Eric decided to go home a few days early to spend time with his kids
before he had to go back to work. Now I'm left with the vegans and my
sugar intake has gone way down. He will be missed!

Back in PDX!! Day 11

Today we rode 60 miles from Clatskanie, OR to Portland. After a 3
mile, 850 foot climb out of town, it was pretty much downhill-ish from
there. We kept a solid pace, pretty much running down the 30 at an 18
mph pace (on an 80 pound touring bike, thats a feat) the whole way and
got into town around 2. As usual, everyone wanted to hop on the Erin
Train and have me pull them in. Today was the first day that I really
felt like I worked HARD all day long.
So tonight, we did laundry, took serious showers (good blow dried hair
can change my world) and went out for good sushi and Eric and I drank
our signature sugary cocktails.
The cat girls are so excited to have us here. No cat pee on the bed!
Voxie hissed for a solid 5 minutes and then came out of the closet for
a cuddle. They like to pretend that they are only children when HH is
on vacation. Little do they know, I'm planning on having a baby
Siamese after this trip! Breaking news! Baby kitten time in the Harden-
Obriecht household!

Tomorrow Nick and Trish get to Portland to join the tour! We'll spend
a day eating in town and head halfway to Tillamook on Sunday and meet
back up with Pam and Al on Monday afternoon on the Oregon coast. I'm
excited for a full day off the bike. I'm going to read US Weekly, get
my nails done and cook in own kitchen.

Sometimes we camp in nice satae parks with clean showers and peace and
quiet.
And then other times we camp in city parks next to the pinic table
pavillion...

Bad day?

2 pitchers of margaritas will make it better.
55 miles to Portland tomorrow!! Hopefully the cats didn't pee on our
bed in fit of rage.

Day 10

We just crossed the bridge from Washington to Oregon. Everyone said it
was a scary bridge crossing but I don't think I could have prepared
myself. It was close to 3 miles long, crazy head winds, no shoulder
and the last half mile was a 6% grade into the headwind. It took 25
minutes to cross. The cars were trying to be respectful but there just
wasn't enough room. I've never been that scared on a bike in my life.
I told myself that if I could just make it across the bridge alive, I
could get off the bike and sit down on the ground and cry because if I
cried on the bridge I would blind myself with tears and then really die.
We made it and halfway across the sun came out, the rain dried up and
we found an awesome vegetarian restaurant, The Blue Scorcher. Back to
Oregon, the land of gluten free vegan goodness.
We'll ride another 40 miles today and get halfway to Portland, camp by
the base of Mt. Rainer tonight, ride another 50 tomorrow to get home
for some much needed laundry time and give Eric a proper tour of PDX.

Sent from my iPhone

Goodbye Washington!

Hello Oregon!
Astoria bridge crossing.

Day 9

Today we rode 52 miles from Raymond, WA to Ilwaco, WA to camp at Cape
Disappointment State Park. We wanted to come here because of the cool
name and it did not disappoint. The route was great today and we
finished earlier than usual.
Once we got into town, we had a choice of 2 ways to get into the state
park. Per the advice of the grocery store clerk, we could go the
"flat way, with one hill" or the hilly way. Eric was convinced that
the hilly way was shorter. After we rode up at least 7 or 8 steep
kickers (all in the granny) we realized that if someone who drives a
car thinks a road is hilly, IT IS.
We haven't been able to find camp gas for days so we had dinner out at
an awesome restaurant right on the harbor in Ilwaco. Eric and I, and
even Pammi Sue had delicious cocktails. One blackberry and one
watermelon, so good.

Tomorrow we'll begin to head back to Portland to rest for a couple
days and meet up with Nick and Trish. Henry Harden is still on
vacation and loving every minute. I hear he is learning how to not
chase cats. We'll see how much he retains. I can't wait to see my cat
girls! I think we go about 60-65 miles tomorrow, camp one more night
and get to PDX Friday morning.

P.S. If you are wondering why I gained weight while riding 7 hours a
day, it's because I've been eating a pint of ice cream a day. And it's
been damn good.

This is a picture of an island in the Willapa Bay.

Day 6 & 7

Yesterday was the longest ride of the trip so far, 63 miles. But it
was really a nice day, we took a 20 mile detour out to the coast on
Moclips Hwy. It was almost traffic free, rolling and the sun was
shining. Everyone was rolling along nicely. We camped in Pacific Beach
at a little campground right on the beach. Our plan was to head down
to Ocean Shores in the morning and take the ferry to keep riding along
the coast. But then we found out that the ferry has been closed for 2
years because a storm turned the harbor into a sandbar.
So today we had to ride back 20 miles on a nice road to get back to
the 101. It was still a nice road but the sun wasn't out and there was
alot of traffic. We're riding in timber country so there are tons of
logging trucks who like to play chicken with hippie bike tourers. It
can really suck. You just hold on tight and keep on the shoulder.
The route today was HILLY. 2200 feet of climbing in 53 miles. This is
a picture of Nik and Eric working on their 3rd or 4th pb and j
sandwich 2 miles from town! When you are too hungry to ride it in, you
know its been a rough day. The past few days Nik and Eric have
decided that I should pull both of them in for the last 10 miles OR if
there's some sick headwind, I always seem to end up pulling. Thanks men.

A few things I've come to realize on bike tour:
1. It's perfectally acceptable to eat 2 ice creams per day.
2. Gore bike shorts are a gift from god but give men a serious mangina.
3. Farting is never not funny.

Lunch!

Peanut butter milkshake + French fries = a knockout collabo